Every ceramic frieze is made to measure,
with your choice of gloss or matt finishes and tile sizes.
T. +44(0)118 922 1327
Fusing traditional ceramics techniques with the latest digital innovations, we ‘high fire’ your image onto quality floor and wall tiles. Ideal for introducing imagery to tiled areas, our ceramic tiles conform to international standards and are suitable for both home and contract specification.
Customise your tile frieze and choose your size, crop, finish and tile module.
Available tile modules:
– 150 x 150mm
– 200 x 200mm.
Each tile module size is inclusive of the British standard 3mm grout line making it easier for you to measure the desired space to fit your ceramic tile mural. For the individual tile size deduct 3mm. Be aware that due to the handcrafted process, there may be a + 1mm tolerance between individual tiles. If you are planning on a smaller grout gap, please get in touch and we can advise the quantities needed.
We can also offer a very hard wearing floor tile with a composite ceramic material in a range of larger sizes. Please contact us directly if you would like to discuss a non-standard specification.
Our tiles conform to British Standard EN 14411: 2003 All our prints retain the character of the original image.
Our traditionally fired tiles with your very own bespoke image are available in two classic finishes:
Tiles are made to measure and supplied within 30 working days, securely boxed. To help with installation, each tile is labelled on the edge with the row and column placement.
Worldwide shipping is FREE for all orders over £150. For orders under £150, shipping is £15.
To help track the progress of your Surface View product we provide an email receipt with your order, personal confirmation, estimated delivery date and tracking details of your dispatched product.
How to measure
You can choose any measurements, and your ‘out of module’ image will be printed on part of a tile, for you to cut in situ. So all you need to tell us is the overall area you want to cover with your tiles.
Choosing your tile size
In most cases the tile size you require will depend on your design, but it’s also worth considering the following: The smaller the tile, the easier it will be to lay on uneven walls. For large tiles you need your wall to be as flat as possible. For tiling around a shower area, we recommend using larger tiles - less grouting means less water damage.
How to install
We recommend that you use a professional tiler to install your ceramic tiles using conventional tiling methods. We also have some professional guidelines and trade secrets here which you can also download.
How to install – Professional guide
We recommend using powdered adhesive to install your tiles. However, you have a short working time with powdered adhesive, usually about 30 mins, after which time you need to discard the current batch and mix up a new one. Pre-mixed tub adhesives will work but it’s worth choosing a premium brand like BAL.
A 20kg bag of adhesive will tile around 4-5 sq metres.
A 16kg tub of pre-mixed will tile around 3-4 sq metres.
Whether you decide to use powdered adhesive or pre-mixed adhesive you should ALWAYS use a powdered grout. Note: there is a popular misconception that grout is waterproof and that it will not let water through. This is generally incorrect (speciality grouts can be waterproof but general use grouts are not). Grouts for regular use may say “waterproof” or “water resistant”, but this simply means that it is suitable for areas that get wet, in other words, once wet the grout will not deteriorate into mush.
Grout usage will vary greatly depending on the grout joint width and the size of tile you are using. But as a rough estimate, work on 3.5m2/kg. So an area of 20m2 should need about 6kg of grout.
Generally, the tile adhesive you buy will advise what type of primer you should use on your wall before installing the tiles. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s advice, especially when installing the tiles in a wet environment.
You will have already defined the layout of your tiles when you place your order. Make sure that your start point allows enough space for your image to sit within the wall leaving space for 3mm grout in between tiles. Mark your start line with a soft pencil.
We have gaps because tiles will expand and contract to some degree, depending upon temperature and moisture. Grout is more compressible than your tile so will allow for this movement. If no (or very small) gap is left then you risk chipping to the tile edges or the tiles could even “tent” away from the wall. As a guide, leave a 3mm gap for our wall tiles.
Now the fun starts. You need a level base to start tiling from, such as a length of batten nailed to the wall. Make sure that it’s straight and dead level. If using powdered adhesive, mix it in a bucket; add about 2 1/2” of water then add the powdered adhesive. Don’t be nervous about adding quite a bit of powder in one go, it should mix in quite readily. You can pick up a small paddle mixer cheaply from a decent builders merchant - this makes mixing very easy. Keep adding the adhesive and mix until it turns to the consistency of smooth peanut butter.
Now apply your adhesive (either pre-mixed tub adhesive or the stuff you’ve just mixed up) to the wall with a trowel. A 6mm square notched trowel is standard for regular wall tiles, while a smaller notch is needed for mosaic tiles. How much adhesive you should apply will depend on how fast you can tile. If you’re new to tiling and using large tiles (33cm x 33cm) we recommend applying enough to cover the tile height and maybe 3 tiles wide, but if using smaller tiles then reduce the amount to suit. Pre-mixed tub adhesive can skin over quickly so once it’s on the wall, don’t hang about or your tiles won’t stick properly. You need to make sure that the ribs left by the trowel are horizontal and equal in size.
Now you can start fixing tiles. Sit the bottom of the tile on the batten and then stand the tile up so that it’s parallel to the wall. Now apply moderate pressure evenly to the tile, enough to squash the adhesive behind so that the ribs flatten out and make a solid bed. Fit the next tile and stick one of the prongs of a tile spacer in the gap in between (don’t leave the spacer in between the tiles as they are designed to do because they can show through). Wipe off any adhesive that’s standing proud of the joint. Continue this process until you reach the last full tile before the edge of the wall. Cut the last tile, apply adhesive to the back of it, then stick to the wall.
There’s not too much else to it - tiles should be cut around windows and other obstacles but fixing them is the same process
Tiles can be cut quickly and easily using a decent quality tile cutter.
Remove all the tile spacers that should be sticking out all over the walls. Using an old chisel (or similar tool) remove any lumps of adhesive that are proud of the joints. Mixing is easy: get a tub (a paint kettle is ideal), pour just under an inch of water in the bottom, then add the powder a bit at a time. Don’t be afraid to add quite a bit of powder in one go, it should mix in quite readily with a paddle mixer. Keep adding the grout powder and mix until it turns to the consistency of smooth peanut butter.
Pour the grout mix into a paint roller tray and work from that. Load an amount of grout onto your grout float and apply it to the tile joints so that it goes right to the bottom of the joint. Your float should be held at around a 45° angle and you should apply the grout diagonally to the joints so that you only wipe off the excess. The tile face should be fairly free of grout at this stage, but if not it’s not the end of the world. If after about 15 mins you haven’t used all the grout, stop what you’re doing and lightly wipe the face of the tiles with a damp sponge. (Wear gloves because it’s hard on your hands). You’ll need to keep rinsing the sponge often. The tiles you’ve grouted so far should be free of any lumps of grout and reasonably clean.
Expect a thin slurry of grout to remain on the tiles at this stage. Now continue to grout where you left off. Continue this process until you’ve done all the tiles, stopping every once in a while to give all the tiles a wipe over. If you leave the grout on too long, you’ll have a tough job to remove it. You can give the tiles another light sponging now. Then leave alone for a couple of hours. A misty coat of grout will remain on the tiles, and this can be dusted off when the grout is dry after around 5 hours. Wear a dust mask for this. You will probably have to dust/wipe the tiles a few times to remove the powder fully - this is quite normal.
Removing/applying silicone to joint of bath/shower and tiles.
Carefully use a sharp chisel and slide it along the bath/shower surface, then the tile surface at a shallow angle and the silicone will come off easily.
Here’s a foolproof method that gives a perfect finish. Clean and dry the area using methylated spirits. Mask off a straight line (top and bottom of the joint) using either masking tape or electrical tape (electrical tape sticks to tile better than masking tape). Fill the bath with cold water to weigh down the bath. Apply a bead of sealant to the joint then run along the bead with your finger in one continuous movement. You now have the perfect amount of silicone for the seal. Remove the tape as soon as you’ve done this. When removing the tape, you’ll have pulled the edge of the seal a little, so you need to go over the whole seal again with a wet finger. You should now have a perfect seal around your bath/shower. Drain the water from the bath after around four hours when the sealant has gone off.